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Technology, gadget and radio control related stuff.

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My local RC club, DMS Racing, has recently started regular heats for micro racers. Since I have been well and truly bitten by the RC racing bug, I caved in and got myself something to race. In this post I’ll be having a quick look at the Carisma GT14 1/14 scale touring car, and I’ll also be posting about the Team Associated SC18 short course truck later.

First, a bit of video. When I got my Gt14, there wasn’t much info about it, so I figured I might as well do one of those “unboxing” videos that seem to be quite popular these days…

YouTube Preview Image

Having spent a bit more time with it, I must say I’m really looking forward to racing this for the first time. I’m very impressed with the attention to detail of this car, especially considering it could so easily be mistaken for a toy. The shell alone is a work of art – I’ll try my best not to scratch it up too badly on its first outing, but no promises! Obviously a realistic shell isn’t super important on a car that’s going to get raced and see some hard times, but it looks like they’ve already thought of that – the wing is held in place by four body clips, and I was very surprised (and glad!) to discover that the wing mirrors can be easily removed. I had thought that the first thing to go would be the mirrors, because although they’re a lovely scale touch, they do look extremely vulnerable. However, undo a screw, and each mirror comes right off. Speaking of the shell, each shell is available as an option (see the list of Carisma GT14 bodyshells here), and there’s also a clear Mazda 6 shell for custom paint jobs.

Moving on to the chassis, it’s quite impressive how they’ve shrunk a regular 1/10 touring car down to 1/14 size. Everything you’d expect to see is right there – adjustable shocks, proper diffs, a servo saver, adjustable geometry, slipper  - there’s even mountings for anti roll bars. There are a number of upgrades available (and there’s also a “pro” spec chassis-only version, the GT14 Pro V-One) so some of the components are basic – the shocks are adjusted using clip-on rings, unlike the threaded body “Pro” shocks; it doesn’t have the aluminium adjustable turnbuckles, settling for threaded rods; the chassis isn’t carbon fibre; the tyres are scale treaded instead of slicks or foam; and the diffs are geared instead of ball. However, for a nice, easy, out-of-the-box racer, you’ve got everything you need to keep you occupied for a while.

GT14

Carisma GT14

The motor is a bog standard 370-size brushed unit, however even this has a couple of nice touches. First off, there’s a clip-on heatsink (which I’ll be swapping onto my SC18 next time I race it!), and secondly, replacement brushes are one of the option parts! I imagine a lot of racers will be wanting to swap a brushless system in, but it’s good to know that if you stick with the standard motor you’ll be able to maintain it. I wouldn’t be surprised if some clubs ran a controlled class of this car, to keep costs down and make it easier for people on a limited budget to get involved.

Even the radio is quite decent. I’ve opted for a 2.4GHz model – I really can’t be doing with crystals and frequency clashes and so on, so for the extra £20 or so, it’s worth going for.  In fact, it’s really the only one that makes sense – apparently the 27MHz models have a combined ESC and receiver, so if you ever did want to go to 2.4GHz you’d need to replace both the ESC and the receiver, which would cost you more than the extra for the 2.4GHz model in the first place. Just a 2.4GHz receiver would be at least £35, so it makes no sense at all to go for an FM model. Anyway, the radio gear is not bad at all – the transmitter takes four AA batteries (supplied!) unlike the SC18’s demand for eight, and as well as the usal throttle and steering trim, you’ve got end point adjustment AND a dual rate knob. Not bad for a kit radio. The only downside is that even though it’s a 2.4GHz system, the receiver’s aerial is just as long as any FM aerial – at least 30cm or so. Fortunately it doesn’t seem to mind being coiled up inside the shell, so I’ll be racing it like that.

Anyway, that’s my first impressions – I’ll post an update once I’ve given it a run around the track!

Little and large

Little and large...

I’m thoroughly enjoying my Traxxas E-Revo. It’s stupid amounts of fun. The only slight problem is that it’s too big for me to run at home – the garden just isn’t big enough for a 1/8 scale RC monster truck. Especially not one that’s been upgraded to brushless – I pull the trigger and straight away, it’s in the geraniums.

Thankfully (for my wife’s herbacious borders) Traxxas recently released a 1/16 scale E-Revo, the E-Revo VXL, which is exactly half the size of the original. Not only that, but it has a water-resistant brushless motor and ESC. So, does half the size mean half the fun?

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The Traxxas E-Revo is a pretty flexible truck when it comes to power sources. Out of the box, it can use 7.2v or 8.4v NiMh packs, but I’m fast becoming a LiPo convert, so I wanted to use LiPo with my E-Revo. Here’s how I did it.

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As blogged earlier, I’ve recently decided to give radio-controlled touring cars a try. I’m starting out with the Xray T2R Pro 1/10 Touring Car. I’m classing this as “a beginner’s experience” as I’ve never built one of these before – I’ve built a rock crawler recently, and a Tamiya kit many years ago, but this is in an altogether different league.

In the first of a short series of posts talking about how I built the kit, I’ll go over the stuff you need to buy to be able to build the kit. continue reading…

Spektrum DX3S transmitter

Spektrum DX3S transmitter

After unpacking, charging up the batteries and checking everything worked, the first thing I wanted to do with my new E-Revo was replace the radio gear. Don’t get me wrong – the transmitter and receiver that come with the model are fine, and I’ve not read any complaints about them, but since I bought a Spektrum DX3S for my touring car, I’d much rather use that.

The main benefit of using the DX3S is that it’s a 2.4GHz system – so it should have a greater range, and no risk of interference from other transmitters. There are other benefits too – it only needs 4 batteries, not 8, and since has a 10-model memory, I can set it up to work with the E-Revo and the T2R Pro straight away using the two receivers it came with, and by picking up another receiver I can  control the AX10 with it as well. I might even use it for the boat – one transmitter for all my non-flying models…

Anyway, the point of this post is to describe how I got everything set up to use the DX3S with the Traxxas E-Revo, so let’s crack on.

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Looks like a fair bit of traffic hitting my site from people Googling “T2R Pro”, but getting the main page instead of the posts being referenced. So here’s links to the relevant posts – there’s more to come now I’ve built it and got some pointers, so check back soon!

Getting into r/c touring cars
General musings about how to go about starting in 1/10 touring car racing

Which radio control touring car for a beginner? Pt 1
Should you buy a ready-to-run car, or build a kit?

Which radio control touring car for a beginner? Pt 2
Choosing the chassis, motor and speed controller

Which radio control touring car for a beginner? Pt 3
Batteries, charger and radio decisions

Traxxas E-Revo

Traxxas E-Revo

Over the last year or so I’ve been getting back into radio controlled stuff , and have been building up a collection of helicopters and cars that I never could have managed when I was a kid.

As you might be able to tell from other posts on this blog, I already have an Axial AX10 Scorpion rock crawler, and an Xray T2R Pro 1/10 touring car. But… I wanted another one. Why? Put simply, I want one for bashing. The T2R is only usable on a racetrack, and although the AX10 is great fun on rocks, it’s a bit too slow for any other scenario. For general messing around in the garden or elsewhere, I wanted something with a bit more grunt, so I started looking around.

What to choose?

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Ok, so far we’ve looked at the chassis, motor and speed control side of things. The next two big choices to make when building your own car are batteries & charger and radio gear.

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So in part 1 I talked about whether to buy a RTR kit, or build a car from scratch. I’ve decided that I’d rather build one from scratch, and this next post details the various choices I made, and why. I’m not saying these are the only choices, or even that they’re the best choices – but they made sense to me!

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That was the question that was on my mind recently. In an earlier post, I described how I’d liked the look of 1/10 scale r/c touring car racing, so having been to a meeting to see what happens, the next step was to go ahead and buy stuff. Since the whole point of my blog is to write up my experiences and learning curve in the hope it might help someone else, here’s how I went about it. In this first post, I’ll talk about RTR (ready-to-run) packages, and the kits you build yourself.

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